top of page

Instructions: Degreasing

What needs to be degreased?

- Chain

- Cassette

- Crankset

- Derailleur pulleys

 

Even if I already use wax?

For hot wax or water-based waxes, our liquid wax and hot wax can be applied directly.

 

What do I need?

- Solvent: Nitro thinner or brake cleaner (no other cleaner achieves the same cleaning power!). Alternatively, an additive for the ultrasonic bath can be used.

- Gloves

- Fresh air

- Mason jar

- Safety goggles (solvent in the eyes is very uncomfortable)

- Brush

 

IMPORTANT! Please only use nitro thinner or brake cleaner. Only these degreasers are residue-free. This is crucial for the proper functioning of the wax later on!

 

How do I do it?

1. Disassemble the chain.

2. Pre-clean especially dirty chains with chain cleaner.

3. Place the chain in a mason jar and cover it completely with degreaser.

4. Let it soak if possible, shake it, and later work on it with the brush.

5. Repeat the process at least twice with fresh degreaser (until the liquid remains relatively clear).

6. Unscrew the cassette from the freewheel body (perfect for renewing the grease in the freewheel). Then, follow the same procedure as with the chain (not as meticulously degreased here).

7. Wipe the chainrings thoroughly with a cloth soaked in degreaser.

8. Let the chain air dry after degreasing and later rinse it with water (otherwise, the wax cannot adhere properly).

 

Ultrasonic bath (optional):

1. Fill the ultrasonic bath with water and 10% ultrasonic cleaner. Place the chain in it and process for 20 minutes. The warmer the water, the higher the solubility of the grease. Rinse the chain briefly with water here as well.

 

Alternative

Place the chain in a mason jar with degreaser into the ultrasonic bath. The ultrasonic waves are transmitted through the water into the mason jar. Please leave the heating function turned off.

 

Disposal

How do I dispose of the solvent?

Please take it to the recycling center. Some customers let it evaporate; it goes faster with a bit of paper inside. The oil residues are then wiped up with paper and thrown into the regular trash.

 

If everything has worked out, you can reattach your components, and you're ready to go with the waxing!

This is meant to be a guide and not a binding set of instructions. We disclaim any liability. No claim to completeness.

​

​

Must-read! Here, we explain potential errors in the use of chain wax:

 

1. For Hot and Liquid Wax

   - Diagnosis: Does the chain still run unevenly, loudly, and the links feel sticky after 50 km of hot waxing (break-in period) or generally after waxing?

   - Solution: This issue arises from improper degreasing! Place the chain in a saucepan and let it boil for 10 minutes. Oil and wax will dissolve (repeat if necessary), then degrease again with brake cleaner, let it air dry or rinse with water, and reapply wax!

 

2. Hot Wax

   - Diagnosis: The chain becomes loud after only 200 km?

   - Solution: The wax was boiled too hot (some thermometers are imprecise too)! The wax becomes too liquid, and too much drips from the chain during the cooling process.

bottom of page